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On a far-flung beach along the eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika , below a huge tropical forest, is the tiny sanctuary of Greystoke Mahale. The forested slopes of the Mahale Mountains that rise behind the camp are home to the world’s largest known population of chimpanzees, with approximately 1000 individuals inhabiting the national park. As you make the approach to Greystoke Mahale by dhow, the outline of the camp is visible against a backdrop of deep green forest and pale beach.
Accommodation is in six stylish, exotic wooden bandas, all looking out across the white beach to the lake, and the atmosphere is one of total relaxation. The bandas are open-fronted, with interiors fashioned from dhow timber. Each thatched banda in this wilderness retreat is well furnished, with wooden double beds, crisp linen and local textiles, and has its own dressing room, upstairs ‘chill-out; deck, and adjoining bathroom with shower and flush toilet.
The focal point of Greystoke Mahale is the bar and dining area rising up from the sand and loosely modelled on traditional Tongwe architecture. This has recently been extended, and the upstairs area, with its rare books and specialist primate library, now has four decks that look out to every point of the compass, and are the perfect vantage points to sit and appreciate this incredible place. The cosy bar, set in the rocks on the headland, has stepped decks down to the water’s edge –the perfect spot for star-gazing and enjoying fresh sashimi and iced vodka, and the view out west across the mighty waters of the lake. Dinner can be taken in the tented dining area or barefoot on the beach –a quite theatrical experience.
The forest is very special, with eight other species of primate, shyer forest mammals, birds, butterflies, giant vines and waterfalls, and activities at Greystoke are determined by its stunning environment. A trek through the rainforest takes you to Mahale's chimpanzees. Tracking the primates is all part of the experience of observing the nine species of primate, of which the endangered chimpanzee is the most famous. From supporting research projects to encouraging awareness about the endangered primates, Greystoke has been instrumental in the protection of the area's chimpanzees. Sixty chimps live in the mountains close to camp, and have become habituated to human presence over two decades of contact. Guests can venture out into the forest, to observe and commune with them as they groom and wrestle and forage across the forest floor.
There is also the opportunity to observe leopard, bushbuck, bushpig, and a multitude of birds and butterflies. The waters sparkle with over 250 species of tropical fish.
After a morning of hiking through the rainforests, there is no better way to recoup your energies on the soft sand beach, and the waters of the lake. You can snorkel or swim in the clear waters, fish, or kayak along the lake shore.
Dinner on the beach under the stars, and sundowners on the dhow can make for a magical end to an unforgettable day.
There are no roads within 60kms of camp. Access is only by aircraft using Tanganyika Flying Company’s shared charter flights which operate on Mondays and Thursdays, or by private charter. Greystoke Mahale is a 90 minute dhow trip from the airstrip.
Fair Trade / Responsible Travel
The Mahale Mountains are home to some of Africa's last remaining wild chimpanzees. From supporting research projects to encouraging awareness about the endangered primates, Greystoke has been instrumental in the protection of the area's chimpanzees. Mahale's chimps have been habituated to human presence by over two decades of contact with researchers. In co-operation with the Tanzania National Parks Association, Greystoke Mahale also leads efforts to regulate chimpanzee-viewing procedures.
Greystoke Mahale helped found the Tongwe Tribal Trust in an attempt to preserve the cultural heritage of the forest dwellers. The Trust aims to record an archive of the Tongwe's musical and oral history.